Last time we traveled in this country, we struggled to feed ourselves.  This trip however, lady luck (and a little local knowledge!), we find food very abundant.  When in the small town squares, we just look for the tell tale signs of tables.  Occasionally, like this one, there may be a menu on the outside glass, but not always. 

We are sort of fans of "Arroz con pollo" (Chicken with Rice).  I felt a bit like a grim reaper when about 5 minutes after we order, this man comes strutting into the restaurant with the said  "Pollo". RIP little guy.

While the Pollo awaits his fate, Keith has brought packed about 20 soccer balls.  He's giving them to kids as we meander through the ride.  Unfortunately, we didn't bring the needle tip to pump them up, but hey, there is one thing that I will say about Ecuador is that if there is a will, there is a way!

Do you remember the days of walking into a castle and seeing the walls of arms to demonstrate their military prowess?  Well, Keith has decided that his KLR war steed must bear arms.  It's a noble, American thought, the right to bear arms.  With that, he's completely made a mess of his handlebars, but he has one finger access to silly string to ward off all Mardi Gras invaders!  He even has a back up bottle on his tail pack.

At the dry desert canyons fade into patchworks fields of vegetables, roses and dairy cattle, we find ourselves on cobblestone roads. Many of these roads have seen centuries of weary travelers.  It's somewhat awe inspiring to visualize the all of the love, the war, the conquering that these roads have hosted, as it appears so serene today.  The roads are so battle proven in their design, that you can still see the vertical lines in the cobble stoning.  These vertical lines (next pic) were  used to ensure the carts were properly spaced on the road.

We rattle our way over 3700M/12000 feet, where we sneak by the Fuya-Fuya Volcano.  For our efforts, she rewards us with the majestic Mojanda Lake

Initially, I was forlorn that that the laptop was unable to travel with our packout.  Hindsight, I am perhaps giddy that that the cards folded that way.  So many pictures, and so many stories that still have yet to come forward.  And in many ways, I might not have otherwise had the effort to document in "real time".

I am little concerned that when the end of the world occurs, I will don't have many notable skills.  I have neither the color pallet, nor that the patience for any crafts that would either sustain life or be marketable trade.  However, there is boundless talent in Ecuador.







For instance, can you take a Alpaca and weave it? 

Perhaps you are better at carving a wood or stone medium?

At any rate, we have just about overstayed our timeline for getting in before the 1830 witching hour.  It's no joke to be off the road by sunset, as the roads are cave dark and the fog rolls in. We finally saddle up and head out of Quito...into the wild, wonderous, and willy Ecuador!

We leave Quito in the rear view mirror, and head north for Otavalo.  It's ridiculous close geographically to Quito, maybe only 90KMs via the Pan American Highway.  However, those that know us, know that route simply won't be a sufficient mode for travel. 

It's a good thing that our GPS folks have the same idea.  As the elevation drops, roads like this one abound.

Never a bad day when your road meanders by raging rivers!

KLR sneaking past

It seems that the hairpins turns claim the first victim of the trip.  Seems the front brake got a little pear shaped on Kelly and proceeded to nicely deposit her on the tarmac.  The Husky loses a mirror, but otherwise is no worst for the wear. 

Back above the clouds we go again.

As we depart the lifestyle of Ecuadorian families, we embark on few neat experiments.  First let's play with some clocks which don't move. 
This clock works 354 days a year...with the only exception on the equinoxes.   There are two equinoxes every year – in September and March – when the sun shines directly on the equator and the length of day and night is nearly equal.  Also interesting, the length of day on the equator only varies by 5-10 mins.  No need for Daylight savings time!

If this photo was taken in another six months, the shadow would be below the center line (O-->E line).  Do you know what time it is?

Here's another version of clock with no moving parts. 

 With that bright red line so ostensibly drawn on the ground, what could be more intriguing than to test the old which way does the water flush theorem?   Yup, on the equator straight down, Northern Hemisphere counter clockwise, and Southern clockwise!  Notice the globe mounted behind Kelly's head.  If you spin the globe by pulling it towards the wash basin, a person on Kelly's side would say the globe is spinning counter clockwise (North America) .  Likewise, continue spinning the globe the same, but now step around to the other side of the globe (Australia end).  We've not changed the spin on the globe, but it person would say it's spinning clockwise. 

I hope that none of you imbibe in your alcohol while to you drive on the equator.  Apparently, the standard "close your eyes and walk the line" from tow to heal is really, really tough on the equator.  Life with confused magnetism is not easy!

Next up egg university. Sometimes you need to think long and hard about what is on your life bucket list.  Until today, I've never pondered the personal satisfaction that I might attain by balancing an egg on nail.  Supposedly, because gravity is less on the equator this feat is much easier (only possible?) here.  Nonetheless, the stage has been set.

And for all of our hard studies, we are officially documented as graduating from Egg University.  If I actually had a facebook page, I think I would like this on my professional accomplishments:

Heck, it seems my "good idea fairy" is getting the best of me today.  Now we have upped the ante and memorialized this visit by stamping my passport! I hope that one day I am not marooned in a 3rd world country for this deed!

As the DR200 is grounded until 0930, and Bruce and I have already seen the Equator monument last time, the decision is that Keith and Kelly will depart 1.5 hours before us visit the Equator monument.  We will then rejoin each other at the second stop of the day, the The Inti-ñan museum.

It was a somewhat flawless plan, which ends up somewhat poorly executed.  First off, Keith and Kelly find themselves on the wrong side of the "law man" during the busy morning commute.  After missing a turn, they apparently get a stern talking to by the Policia.  For the most part, we've found that that Ecuadorian Policia have a very low corruption rate.  Apparently, despite the Policia flailing his arms and demanding their papers (which were somewhat inconveniently stowed at the bottom of their panniers, because really how often do you need those?) he eventually gets so frustrated that he returns to his cruiser and leaves.  I suppose you should take your wins how you can get them. 

Bruce and I arrive at the museum in really good time.  The last time, we mistook the building at the road for the museum and thought it resembled a bit of "Ripley's believe it or not" style.   This time, we mind as well get off the bikes since we need to wait anyhow.  For a mere $4, we find ourselves entertained for the next 2 hours.  Really it was worth it!

Perhaps the best know things which comes out of the Amazon River basin are the infamous "headshrinkers".  In case you ever wanted to know the proper way to do it, wonder no longer.

The above head is over 100 years old.  Notice that the mouth has been sewn shut to prevent the enemy's soul from escaping! I quickly review the map of our next 9 days, and I am somewhat relieved that we don't go into the Amazon basin...as the "practice" is still somewhat persistent today.

Yet another reason to be thankful for not visiting the Amazon basin, is the somewhat infamous Candiru fish.

Besides being on the GPS defined equator, another reason for the museum on this particular site is this original house.  The creosote from the cooking helped waterproof the thatched roof.  Additionally, the guinea pig pen provided for many a ceremonial meals.  They are kinda cute!

The mud/manure/stick walls are nearly impervious to any earthquakes. 

Next up...the experiments!

It seems that no trip to Ecuador would be complete, unless you had to consciously find food. As foodies, every trip is a culinary experience.  This one is no exception.  In Ecuador, we consider our culinary experience complete if when we successfully find grub.  Matters not to the taste buds, if we just at a Guinea Pig on a skewer.  Leaving the states at 0600, didn't leave much time/motivation.  The "layover" in Miami, ended up to be nothing more than a 16 gate change via the monorail.  Despite our 1 hour layover time and a on-time arrival, we were some of the last ones to board the flight. No food in Miami.

Luckily(?), we got some airline grub.  Bruce's bike wasn't done with getting some new shoes and mechanical maintenance done, so dinner was late.  It wouldn't have been so bad having a late dinner except Ecuadorians don't do a full/heavy dinner.  Nonetheless, we finally ate.

It was a late night picking up the bikes, but the highlight of the night was the pre-ride brief.  Apparently, Mardi Gras (AKA Carnival) starts officially on Tues.  If you were in Ecuador, you wouldn't let a Georgian calendar dictate your life.  You would start Carnival on any weekend.   I had to chuckle when we were instructed to take one of two approaches since you can't beat them, join them.  The bikes will arrive in Canoa (beach town) with Silly string on the handle bars and filled water balloons. 

And so another Adventure begins. 

PS I am happy to report that Kelly isn't actually a Jack-in-box head.  Although, I still don't have a picture to show for it.  Whoops

As we boarded the plane, the graphic of our flight path was displayed. It seems that Quito is pretty much due south of Miami! It's been said that world powers reside will always reside within the 38th & 40th parallels, and quite frankly it's a welcome relief to be leaving behind Washington politics.

As the plan approaches the thin red line, also known as equator, we will soon calibrate ourselves to latitude 0. Changes in latitude, changes in attitude they say!

Landing at 1400 gives us plenty of time to clear customs. We are progressing rather nicely until the bags are sent through the final contraband x-ray. While the exit is within meters and within site, we now get a bit of impromptu luggage search. The bag in question was stuffed with 15 pounds of 700 Crayola crayons and 500 pencils. It seems that the customs is sensitive to items that will potentially need to pay duty. Nonetheless, our "Pack for Purpose" items are quickly dismissed.

Our 3 full sized suitcases stuff the subcompact taxi we hire to tack us to Freedom Bike Rental. The taxi literally bounces it's way down the curvy valley. At one point, the "rear bonnet" bounces open nearly sending Bruce's helmet down the road too. Freedom Bike Rental moved since last time we were here, and a few more wrong turns, and we have arrived.

Our rental doesn't start until tomorrow, but we are able to pick up the bikes this evening. Begin relocating the rather large amounts of cripity crap from our over sized suitcases, into the very petite Altrider Hemisphere saddle bags. We head off to dinner as Bruce's F800 gets a brand new rear tire. By 2100, the welcome comfort of the Marriott. In Quito, they have a congestion reduction policy. The last digit of the license plate indicates the day of the week that your vehicle can't be driven before 0930. It seems the "mighty" DR200 day is Friday, so we will get a late start.

Everyone needs that someone to call you up and tell you to get your riding kit on, we are going out.  For Bruce, he's often been accused of being an "enabler".  An "enabler" in the sense that things are going to happen, and likely others will be involved.  They don't know that they will be coming along, but mark the words others will be involved.  Here's Bruce next to his Canadian Inuktitut. 

The blue ridge mountains, never fail to amaze me.  Blue they are.  One of the Dorito machines in action!  

The last time we saw Keith he was heading north to visit the Cinnamon Bun Capitol of North American. I really think he's an adrenaline junkie and used to longer trips. Yes, he wants to head any direction but home. About 2 hours later, we are now heading the correct direction to cross a border. 

The last one is Kelly. Bruce and I have never met Kelly.  Part of me thinks that Kelly might look like this.  Or maybe she looks different. Maybe she likes Cinnamon Bun too?  Only time will tell...

In the words of Dr. Suess, it wasn't easy to decide where within Ecuador to see this time.  Fundamentally, we had a requirements problem.  The crux of the issue is that I am certain that our trek last time brought us through parts of Ecuador few tourist will ever see.  That was the Ecuador that we fell in love with.  Actually, during the more populated touristy areas, we couldn't wait to leave.

The other issue is that we felt that the 5 days last time was too short.  As luck is a lady for us, it was very good that Freedom Bike Rental was able to accommodate our every wish.  We end up deciding on a 10 day dual sport tour which ends coast through rain forests to the Andes.

It will also return to two of our favorite hostels, Mindo's DragonFly Inn and the Mama Mia's. 

Yes, the thing about Ecuador is you are never in the same climatic region for long. If you remember the scene from Karate Kid with "Wax on, Wax off", then you will fully appreciate the need to layer your clothes all day long.  Layers on, Layers off. 

Wanderlusters – or explorers, rebels, thrill-seekers, whatever you want to call them – who can’t sit still and have a constant itch to explore. Bruce and I knew that when we left Ecuador last trip, we had barely cracked this nut.  We didn't know when we'd be back, but just that "back" would happen.   As it turned it out, it was probably a fortuitous set of circumstances that made the return a bit sooner.  

For one, 2015 was the year that rebuilt. It was the year that Bruce finally got cleared from his 3 year ordeal with the foot/ankle doc.They say the hardest thing about modern medicine is just entertaining the patient long enough for the body to heal itself.  Somehow the hours of intense pain, gradually weakened as each month melted away.  The good/painfree days now far out number the bad days, and the activities that aggravate the old injuries are much better mapped.  It's not the same old normal.  Rather it's a new normal. 

The second fortuitous thing that made this trip possible, is that we had 2 free airline tickets on US Airways. However, US Airways didn't fly to Ecuador...well, they didn't fly to Ecuador until they merged with American Airlines.  With the merger of the two airlines in the fall 2015, our free tickets now piqued our interest.  However, anyone that has ever had had the 'joy' of using free airline tickets, knows that there are very few seats you can actually use them.  We actually ended up booking them 4 months out, and luckily got really nice seat choices.

Lastly, 2015 was comprised of many mini-trips.  It had almost felt like someone had cancelled your birthday in a sense. While there were many highlights such as going to Maine for a long weekend of Lobsters, Key West,  or the long weekend of corner carving through West Virginia to the old Greenbrier bunker, we still had not satiated that inner monster.  It's that inner monster that knows we have stolen from him.  The inner monster that we owed that one long trip too.

As it turns out, it's not far off the truth.  It seems that the inner monster has proper gene name "DRD4".  So, with health and airlines in the correct alignment, there was nothing left but let the DRD4 gene guide us.  In 1999, four scientists from UC Irvine published a paper titled “Population Migration and the Variation of Dopamine D4 Receptor (DRD4) Allele Frequencies Around the Globe” that explored the migration patterns and gene pool distribution of pre-historic human beings. They were originally researching for links between dopamine receptor D4 (DRD4) and Attention Deficit Disorder. While conducting the study, they discovered another weird correlation: people with the DRD4 genes tend to be thrill-seeking and migratory. 

Only a small portion of the human genetic pool contains this trait.