Some things are the same the world over.... we leave the hotel in Gobernador Gregores at 0630. Across the street from hotel, a New Year's eve party is still in full swing. A few people leave the party and are staggering/walking down the street, when one decides to dump something in the neighbor's bushes and then 75 yards later whips out his stuff and pisses on the small wall surrounding someone else's yard.....too funny!
They say you should start the year doing the one thing that you want to do for the rest of the year. Not a bad start for us I'd say. The track into El Calafate is 335KMs, and probably 100 clicks of high speed gravel. Thousands of miles in Canada have certainly provided us some life skills to easily trot down the track. It is certainly high desert. We run the go pro and the 200+ photos it captures the scenery certainly doesn't change much from frame to frame, even though it only shoots every 60 seconds. We do stop to 'admire' what this fish creature is doing in the middle of the scenery.
They say you should start the year doing the one thing that you want to do for the rest of the year. Not a bad start for us I'd say. The track into El Calafate is 335KMs, and probably 100 clicks of high speed gravel. Thousands of miles in Canada have certainly provided us some life skills to easily trot down the track. It is certainly high desert. We run the go pro and the 200+ photos it captures the scenery certainly doesn't change much from frame to frame, even though it only shoots every 60 seconds. We do stop to 'admire' what this fish creature is doing in the middle of the scenery.
Now on day 2 of living among the Guanacos, we have found them remarkably predictable. We also noted they prefer the less windy places (if you could really say that about this vast open space) to hang out.
Little Guac's are nothing but all neck and legs..
We stop for fuel about 0900 at Tres Lagos. I have a bad feeling as we pull up the pump. Notice that the pump is again covered in stickers? Yes, there is also no fuel at this station either. There is a sign on the window saying something about 1030, but it's not clear if that is when they open or the fuel truck should arrive.
We know from yesterday, that the despite the larger tank the Afrika Twin, it is a more thirsty bike. We also know that that the low fuel light is on at 90KMs. With a cushion of 40 clicks between fuel to empty and remaining miles on the track (plus another 11L in the fuel bladder), we don't wait 1.5 hrs to see what might happen.
We know from yesterday, that the despite the larger tank the Afrika Twin, it is a more thirsty bike. We also know that that the low fuel light is on at 90KMs. With a cushion of 40 clicks between fuel to empty and remaining miles on the track (plus another 11L in the fuel bladder), we don't wait 1.5 hrs to see what might happen.
Another 57 clicks down the track, the sole building in La Leona is too inviting not to stop. And besides the best beef empanadas, we discover Butch is Back! Apparently, he thought the same of the place and stopped here for a month while hiding out during 1905!
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And so the next ride idea is born. We will follow in escape path of Butch from his arrest in Wyoming State Penitentiary in Rawlins, WY through South America. I guess it is time for me to start getting some history books.
We sit eating our emapandas in relative peace as the earlier 10 days have been. And then it happens. Not one, but 3 tours buses unload their zombie tourists on the little cafe. I have experienced less chaos when driving through a horde of grasshoppers. Not only is our scenery changing in a little bit, but apparently the tone of the trip will also be morphing. Sure enough as we get back onto Ruta 40, we are also playing frogger with all madmen driving the tourists. They were probably sane men before they started that job, so I can't really fault them.
But the landscape is changing yet again. And imagine our surprise when we happen upon Superman's Snow Fortress!
We are in Glacier Country Now. Meet Fitz Roy Glacier. The glacier is most noticeable in the center of bowl leaking out. There are about 13 glaciers in this region. This one would take about a day hike to get closer, and we are adventure riders not hikers.
Icebergs presumably calved off one of the many glaciers.
We (try) to check in Hotel Design in El Calafate around 1300. No dice. The Hotel self-certify's as a 5-star accommodation, but so far the don't have a continuous room for us for both nights, so we will have to move after night one. The Jacuzzi tub doesn't work, we managed to plug the commode, and this morning the tub is filled with bugs that presumably crawled up through the Jacuzzi drain as they can't seem to get out! But, the weather is suppose to rain a bit tomorrow, so we jet out to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. What is another 160KMs!
The USD is quite strong against the Argentina Peso, so it's about $13USD to enter the park. And Ruta 11 is quite a fun bit of tarmac to tear up. In fact, the Afrika Twin has endeared itself to Bruce enough he might consider one in the stable. We get close enough to watch it for the better part of an hour. It interesting to see it calve, the hear the bizarre sound waves catch up moments later!
The USD is quite strong against the Argentina Peso, so it's about $13USD to enter the park. And Ruta 11 is quite a fun bit of tarmac to tear up. In fact, the Afrika Twin has endeared itself to Bruce enough he might consider one in the stable. We get close enough to watch it for the better part of an hour. It interesting to see it calve, the hear the bizarre sound waves catch up moments later!
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