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BMW G650X Country

Ride America!  Preparations

7/17/2022

0 Comments

 
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If you love her, set her free.  But I do love her.  But yet in a little less than a month's time I will turn her over to Federal Transport. Federal will transport her 2000 miles west and stage her near Denver International airport.  We will reunite in August for a trifecta of three luscious weeks of riding the new Wyoming Backcountry Discovery route, the Colorado BDR and the Utah BDR.  Once that concludes, she will stay in storage for a few more trips coming back early spring.

That means that any possible maintenance could not be postponed.  New tires, new chain and sprockets, and new brake pads and rotors.  The rotors were maddening to source.  The low-production bike now 13 years out of production is becoming hectic to source parts.  The reality that for all my want, she will likely need to be retired before I am ready.  However with two X bikes in the household, we may squeak out a little more juice using the first bikes that taps out as the parts bike for the remaining bike. But as with all things "part is no longer available no alternative component available" means that even at a 200 percent mark up, BMW won't support the platform forever.  
​
Galfer is still a viable option, but also providing the specifications incase you want to try to find other compatible rotors.  Here are the rotors specs from Galfer:

Front Rotor Specifications:
​Ø Outer: 298.00 mm
Ø Inner: 105.00 mm
Off set: 0.00 mm
Thickness: 4.00 mm
No. holes: 6
Ø between holes: 120.00 mm
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Rear Rotor Specifications:
​Ø Outer: 240.00 mm
Ø Inner: 105.00 mm
Off set: 0.00 mm
Thickness: 4.00 mm
No. holes: 6
Ø between holes: 120.00 mm
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The rear rotor shares some commonality with a scooter, and it easily sourced from the EU.  Ordered from Italy, and shipping was about 10 days.  With a favorable exchange rate, the set was mine for $200.  I will note that OEM front rotor was not floating-type.  While floating type will likely stop better in most situations and reduce the fabled brake chatter, it is more vulnerable to damage off-road.  So, I've sacrificed a bit of robustness.  The rear is just a sexier version of BMW :-)

I paired them with the EBC Semi-sintered (orange) on the front and Carbon X (red) on the rear.  The reason for this is that I don't find that bike heats up the pads enough to get a decent bite from full sintered, especially sub 30 MPH off-road.  The orange pads are a nice compromise to wear and braking.
​Of curious interest, the other X bike sports these rotors.  The front part number stamped on it was 813914-00 and 813915-00 (rear).  However, I never did find any stock domestically or internationally.
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The EBC site lists MD810C as fitment for the X-bikes.  It is unclear which rotor that is for based on EBCs write up, but the comments seemed to confirm rear fitment.  Also it is cited as discontinued, but I did find some new old stock domestically.  
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21" Front Wheel & 'Spench Upgrade

3/16/2022

1 Comment

 
There are some bikes that come into your stable, and leave in short order.  Then there are unicorn bikes.  Ones that leave a tire tread mark across your heart. It's funny to look back and realize that is has been nearly 9 years since I bought the G650X.  So many great rides, I decided to gussy her up a bit.  First things first, I bent the housing the Ohlins rear shock.  Ohlins has been painful to deal with, as they don't have good inventory control.  So out with the nonsense, and I bought a TFX shock with reservoir.  Damn, that turned a good bike into a a great one.  Mounting it was a bit tricky because I had to relocate the reservoir on the far side.  It was suppose to mount to the bracket which is blocked by my Hotrod Welding Aux fuel tank.
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The next issue to address occurred back in 2012, when we were riding into New Mexico.  We got schooled pretty hard on sticky mud that day, as the bikes had low fenders.  The mud would literally stick to tire then cake so hard that the front wheel would lock up and then throw you on the ground.  Riding ain't so much fun if you have use your tire iron to unfurl the mud like a rolling pin on cookie dough.
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We revisited the sticky mud problem again on the Trans America Trail.  But this time, armed with high fenders the mud was not as formidable. 
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Getting ready to take the X bike out to sticky mud country next summer, and decided to give her a new high front fender.  The conversion was probably more than I would have set out to do.  But on a lark, I found a used G650X-challenge fender on Ebay.  So I scooped it up. Turns out there is no way to get the fender to work with the headlight assembly.

I then bought RTECH Supermoto fenders from MotardInn. Since they are coming from Europe, I buy the black and yellow,as I knew the yellow would be the wrong shade.  The yellow will probably be easier to paint as it is closer to the end color, and shipping cost was too high not to at least try.  Other than drilling two holes, they appear to be a direct fit.  Need to get some ride time to see if they will be the correct length to catch the dirt.  They may need a stiffener, but won't know that until some good mud rides. 

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So, the black fender wasn't too bad.  But it is cheaper plastic than the rest of the bike, so it might want to sun fade.  The other minor annoyance was it was a high-gloss finish, and the other black panels on the bike are matte black.  The yellow is way off, think Suzuki yellow.  The bike is a Sunset Yellow (BMW 987), which appears to have some cool/purple tint to the shade.  So, I ordered up this paint kit from Color Rite.  It is technically the F800GS color, also from 2009.  Nothing but mad props for Color Rite.  Quick delivery, great directions, very complete kit.  And the match more than met my expectations.  Here's to hoping that the pain survives the life of a fender abuse!
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Next up, I bought an extra hub off a riding buddy (Hi Mike!).  I sent the hub to Woody's Wheel Works to lace up a new excel rim and super spokes.  It's unfortunate that he won't seal that size rim for tubeless. 

Since the other X-country fender has the fork guards integrated into it, there is a need to replace those too.  I first bought the KTM Acerbis Fork Guards(any style with 3 holes on the bottom should work.  While they bolted up to the bottom holes, I had issues with the brake line.  I replaced the brake line with Spiegler one, because I needed one longer for the steering stabilizer mount.  Well, that brake line has a nice exterior sheath, which is too fat to fit on the Acerbis brake holder. So I ended up buying the BMW ones, which took 6 weeks to swim across the pond at twice the price. 

The BMW Part Numbers are:
  31427696714 FORK PROTECTOR, RIGHT 
  31427696713 FORK PROTECTOR, LEFT             
  31427708941 COLLAR SCREW - M6 (quantity=6)


Heck, since I this far mind as well also take the forks off and put seal savers on them!
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And the final look! (Factory on left, New Fender Right)
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1 Comment

LED Headlight

3/15/2022

0 Comments

 
While I don't commute on this bike, there has been the odd time out that I was out after sundown.  Let's just say I have seen candles with more luminescence that this excuse for a stock headlight bulb.  Technically, it is known in the industry as an H4 bulb.  But what if we could stuff an LED housing in it?  Well you can...with lot's of patience.  First remove the old housing.  Then you will need to remove the brackets to slot them and move them out.  The rider's left side you can access all the screws without needing any further assembly.  But the to get to the top screw on the rider's right side you will need to remove the rear panel of the instrument panel.
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Remove the four small screws on the rear of the instrument panel. They are tiny, do not strip them out!
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You need to remove the headlight brackets to slot them. There is a metal insert in the plastic hole.
I chose a LED for a BMW G310.  The rationale was 1) it side mounted like the G650X, 2) it appeared to to be relatively the same size and 3)the price was right.  I bought it from Matt Gekos, but you could save a few bucks if you order from China.com. 

Aside from slotting the brackets above, you will also need fix a connector on the LED.  It needs a male spade.  I also covered the hole to prevent dirt.  If I was smarter, I would have put the wire through the connector before I crimped the connector.  Whoops!  The main connector is correct, no changes needed.  You will also need some sort of clipped washer to help prevent the headlight from rotating.  I modified ones in the garage, but you might be able to source from McMaster if needed.  Also, the you will need two M6X25mm screws.

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Sides only on ignition on.
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All lights on Hi-Beam
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Ignition on side panels on only. Running side panels and vertical center on.
This was before final adjustment.  They are much brighter than stock, Two minor nits.  It does not have good cut off on the left side, hopefully, it doesn't piss off other drivers.  The high beam is producing light very tall?   Am I snipe hunting? ;-)
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Low Beam at 25 ft away from garage. This is before final adjustment.
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High Beam 25 Feet From Garage
0 Comments

In Which The "A" is Taken

9/10/2014

1 Comment

 
Back in 2010, Blaster changed the stickers on my sled. Frankly, it got tiresome to explain why the bike had a F650GS sticker but was an 800cc motor. Then it got more convoluted explaining that it was not a thumper F650. So he found these. The problem is he is really good at sticker placement, and these look like OEM stickers.



On first glance, one might realize that Blaster removed the "A" from GSA. He didn't think the twin was worthy of the "A". It had neither the gas range nor the true adventure spirit.

The missing "A" became somewhat of a mockery of among the dearest of wing mates:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorito View Post
I have the F798GS. Blaster says I have to earn my "A" in GSA...
Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD3MC View Post
Just take the damn "A"...
About 60K miles later, on an idle afternoon, I realize I don't like riding that bike off road. It's incredibly long wheelbase and top heavy. So what is a girl to do, but quest for the next love. Enter, the next bike in the Dorito namesake:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorito View Post
So, we all remember while Dorito lay mortally wounded from her little brake episode this spring?

Which then led to this itsy bitsy repair?

So, I've decided to take J4S advice. Found me another yellow one!

I think I will call her "Cool Ranch (Dorito)"





Quote:
Originally Posted by EOD3MC View Post
Still no "A" ?
The games continued, as the XC has the adventuring sprit but no gas range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorito View Post
But the "X" is worth 8 times what a piddely "A" is worth.

After a nice addition from HotRod Welding, the XC is now a fierce competitor. She ran with the big dogs and had more range than they did on this trip...all while sipping her petrol at 70MPG. Somewhere in the middle of the trip, she will now be affectionately referred to as the XC-"A"

1 Comment

Odds and Ends

4/1/2014

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Windshield

There are few mods which I guess I clumped together for no other reason they don't belong to anywhere else. The first was the windscreen.  It's fine for deflecting the air over me, but I am pretty short.   I lucked out and got a steel of deal on the windshield, but expect to pay around $400 is you need to buy the parts direct from the BMW.

BMW P/N is 46 63 7 697 209, WINDSHIELD SPORT, CLEAR - L=280MM
BMW P/N 71 60 7 705 971, SET: SET OF PARTS F WINDSHIELD

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Oil Filters

Since there was high probability that I will be fording water crossings, I decided to put in a reusable oil filter.  Also, given the number of miles that I will put on the bike, this is one mod that should pay for itself. I chose Scott's Performance since they filter down to 35 microns (which is about 3 times better than most good paper filters).  The part number is 2151. About $70.
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Paint Protection

No doubt the XC will see her fair share of dirt and grim.  While it's a badge of honor, the result of my lack of baths will eventually have a toll on her. As plastic body panels become harder to source the more rare and old, it's best to have a pound of prevention. I decided to put 3M Nano Film on the painted bits. While this kit doesn't have complete coverage, it does appear to cover the major high traffic bits.

I ordered P/N 601 from Prints and Plots.  
Clean the panels from all grit, grim and dirt.When you apply it, use a spray bottle with a few tables spoons of regular dishwashing soap.  Then liberally spray both the back of the sticker and the panels with the soapy water. Move the sticker around as needed, then use a heat gun (hair dryer) to softly heat as you work the bubbles out with a straight edge. Do NOT over heat.  Expect about $100 for this project.
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Radiator Guards

It wasn't long after just road riding that the radiator exposure was obvious.  It was scary how little abuse I had doled out to her, and how painfully obvious this was a weak point. 
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There were very few aftermarket sources for a radiator guard in the 2007-2009, and none that I found in 2014.  It is a good thing that the plastic radiator guard lends itself nicely to modification.  The first step is to unbolt it from the bike.

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  • Mesh size is the number of openings within a linear inch of the wire cloth.
  • Opening width refers to the actual open space between parallel wires.
  • Wire diameter indicates the thickness of the wire.

    When selecting a wire mesh size, I wanted something to catch the pebbles and such, but not so fine that it easily clogged.  Additionally, air flow over the radiator will be somewhat reduced in theory, so a very small mesh will also affect the cooling. 

    In the end, I chose stainless steel Type 304,
    4 X 4 Mesh, .047" Wire Diameter.  One source of supply is McMaster-Carr.  A piece that was 12 inches square was about $15.  A peice of the uncut wire is in the upper right of the above photo.
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Next, simply cut the mesh to shape of the plastic guard above.  While attaching to the inside would give a 'cleaner' look, it is also less functional.  Since you are attmepting to deflect rocks, a mesh that is touching the radiator wont' have as much "give".  So, I attached it to the outside.  I used some plastic shealthing left over from wiring to cover the edges.  Then, used about 20 zipties.  Here's the end result:

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0 Comments

'Spench

3/17/2014

0 Comments

 
Probably the best money I've ever spent on the bike was putting aftermarket suspension.  While we've used Cogent Dynamic Motorsports, Works Performance and Ohlins, my "go-to" guys is FastBike Industries.  Pronounced "Oh-leens", David at FastBike has been able to some great work.  He's a independent shop, but a perfectionist.  Furthermore, he understands that models and the science behind the numbers.  He's such a wiz-kid, that he is able to do entirely custom work. 

For example, instead of cutting down an incorrect spring rate on the cartridge inserts, he actually gets custom wound springs.  Surprisingly, getting the correct springs doesn't drive the cost much.    So, I sent him my front forks.  He reused the fork tubes, but modified the cartridge inserts (used on the F800GS) for the XC and my parameter (shorty!).  
The front forks now have fully adjustable rebound and compression settings.
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For the rear spring, he actually specified each sub-assembly to design the custom shock.  Ohlins are naturally 'taller' than stock, mostly due to the fact you normally correct the sag measurement.  To compensate, he was able to shim it a wee bit (think mm). 

Since there are few bikes that really fit a shortypants like me (28" inseam), I fully expect to have to spend $ modifying the bike.  I also keep my bikes long enough to enjoy the aftermarket investment.  The suspension work (AKA 'Spench) was probably 50% of the value of the bike, but something that
work is the best Return on Investment that you will notice!
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Ohlins on Left
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Ohlins on Left

A few months later I took the XC over to a cornering clinic. Basically, it's a closed 10 acre course that is coned off.  While knobbie tires, I was putting the sport bike guys to shame because the 'spench was settling so nicely.  Needlessness to say, those TKC weren't coming home with "chicken strips" today!  
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HotRod Welding

3/14/2014

4 Comments

 
Licking my wounds from the somewhat off-target success of the seat, I decide to fix the distance of the XC.  For this, I contact HotRod Welding out of the Netherlands.  He's a small shop, but again a master of his craft. 

The product that really lights my fire took at paltry 120 gas mileage range and extended it to a true ADV bike. The Xtra Tank (which is 35mm wider and still fits the racks) adds 2.6 gallons to the OEM 2.1 gallons.   At 70MPG, that gives a range approx 300 miles.
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The nice part about this tank is that you don't have to do any permanent modification to plumb it.  You just connect it to the overflow valve of the main tank, and it empties into the main tank via suction.

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Now the bad news about suction.  It seems that a good portion of the OEM gas tank caps leak like a sieve.  Thus, they don't keep a suction.  Touratech was carrying a $150 gas cap.  While it was modern marvel of billeted aluminum, they don't make (nor guarantee them either).  However, thus far (knocks on wood) it's worked like a champ.
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The bane of my existence is paying for shipping.  So, since a box is coming across the Atlantic, mind as well come with some pannier racks too!  The nice part about the racks is it comes with an integrated top plate that you can run with or without the side racks.



My two minor complaints are the racks are far more functional than aesthetically pleasing (but hey we are Adventure riders right?).  Secondly, I like to use my rear pegs to stretch out backwards on long slabbing trips.  These racks use the rear pegs for support, which is probably the only way you'd get away with them. It is noted that this rack will only fit the XCs with a steel subframe (2009s).

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My last bit of 'free' shipping from HotRod was the protection bits.  The XC exposed at the bottom of the where the footpegs and motor mount.  We've had limited success with the ears.  I have 2 pairs, and straighten out the bend carnage once year or so.  I'll need to grab some photos of these.



4 Comments

Electrical Upgrades

12/31/2013

0 Comments

 
As all good things, power is everything.  The XCs slender weight was unfortunately achieved by having a smaller stater.  I believe it is 240 Watts.  Nonetheless, still need to think about how to run the GPS, the tap for the heated gear, and AUX plug.  First order of business, was an Odyssey battery. 

My experience with Odyssey batteries is that you don't trickle charge them.  However, if you do completely discharge them you must use an Odyssey charger to recharge it.  The batteries are incredibly robust to vibration, and I've had them start in very low temperatures and last longer than average powersport batteries. They are the no headache solution, if they have a size for your bike.  Fortunately, you can squeeze a PC310 into the XC!
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Since I need 4 or 5 taps on the power, I will need a fuze management system.  While one could chose the Eager Beaver, Centrom or this 3 block system, I chose the solid state Rowe Electronics PDM 60.  The main advantage to solid state is if you have an electrical spike, you don't 'pop' a fuze.  Rather, it resets on it's own.  It is also quite small (about the size of a credit card, 5 or 6 cards thick). The one thing I didn't plan for was having to find a common ground.  However, it does deliver six power circuits configurable for 60 Amps total.  The PDM60 is fully user programmable via the PDM60 dashboard software (set circuit triggering/switching methods, delay circuit activation/deactivation, and individual circuit amperage levels).  This mod cost about $200.
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Since my bike doesn't have ABS, I was able to use the mouting spot for the PDM.  Since I won't need to change popped fuzes or worry about water intrusion, it as good as place as any.

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You will need a wire that has power when the ignition is on for the PDM circuit triggering.  I recommend uses the power on the plug for the charcoal canister which is under the rear of the seat.

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When splicing into the OEM wiring looms, you should be careful not to create shorts, grounds or other electrical gremlins.  Posi-Taps are an easy and waterproof way to tap the wire. Remember, the smaller the wire, the bigger the AWG.  The wire above is probably a 20/22AWG if I recall correctly.

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Last, but not least, the meep-meep horn was replaced.  I replaced with a Stebel Magnum Horn (low tone). The Magnum Horn gives you a single note tone.  The Low tone is rated at 136dB @ 410hz.  I believe they are now out of production.  I was able to use a small bit of scrap aluminum and mount it to the same location as stock. 

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0 Comments

Not Every Mod is a Win...

12/31/2013

0 Comments

 
By late December, I had a lot of fun (and a lot of wins) Modding this bike.  However, my undoing is just right around the corner and will turn out to be 2 very expensive learning points. 

My butt is tuned to sit on a hunk of leather.  I've had low seats in the past, and soft seats and never really felt a need to change a thing.  However, the XC really put a lot of pressure on my Sciatic nerve.  As a higher end build, I elected to put a Renazco Racing seat.  As a custom seat, I played the game. Schedule months in advance, have the seat at their door by a certain date....then you wait.  Then week after week, excuses roll in why the seat isn't done as promised. Then, despite writing all over the form "do not change seat height", back comes a seat that they just did whatever the heck they wanted with.  But you are so happy to have any seat that you don't dare try to send it back again.  Sigh.

I also really wanted gripper vinyl on the top and sides, much like my seat on Dorito.  Renazco basically told me that was a huge mistake....but sometimes I find the regular vinyl top like riding a greased pig. Part of that feeling is that the seat is a bit "nose down", and doesn't have a nice flat spot for you butt anymore. At least it's not hitting my
Sciatic nerve though! 
 
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OEM Low Seat
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OEM Low Seat Nice and Flat
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Renazco
While the seat was off at Renazco, I was busily putting on the exhaust. Sad to say this mod is probably the single worst mod execution I have had to date.  It was expensive and yielded just about none of the desired effects.  The main reason I wanted to replace the exhaust was because it was so hot.  The heat would just waft off muffler and have little BBQ roast. I thought a less restrictive muffler, might run a bit cooler on my hiney!

SR Racing is known to have some very notable performance improvements on the bigger GSs. Without the dB killer, the muffler is nearly
"HD-lover's" spec.  While the dB killer does produce a nice note, it still has a heck of a crack on Wide Open Throttle. However, SR Racing does not import to the USA, so you'll need to find a dealer that will ship internationally.  Good news, I suppose, is that
Scheffelmeier Metall is game to act as a middle man for me.

Here's some Dyno data from the Bigger GS (R1200s) on the SR Racing Exhaust:

SR-Racing Exhaust
I just installed German RS-Racing exhaust, full system to my R1200GS.
I dynoed it to get better understanding what is the situation with standard pipe in comparison to after market one.
We did three options:
1. Original STD pipe
2. SP-racing full system (headers, Y-piece, connector, muffler)
2. RS-racing full system withour DB killer.

If someone can host images of dyno charts, I can share them with you.

Comments:
There is no point revving GS over 6000 rpm, Torque drops steeply and overall power output remains quite even after 6000rpm.
SR-Racing pipe gives SIGNIFICANT improvement between 4000-6000 rpm, with or without db killer. There is 4-6 Nm increase over the rev range 4-6k.
With DB killer, torque is very same with STD pipe around 2-4k, with out DB killer there is ~2Nm improvement. However DB killer makes a dip around 4,8-5k in comparison to "with DB killer".
STD pipe drops torque quite steeply after 5,6k, SR-racing pipe extends max torq to 5,5 - 6,2k rpm, and it stays about 2 Nm higher untill rev limiter kicks in.

Sound with DB killer is very comparable to STD pipe, without DB killer it is a lot louder, but not even close to "HD-lover's" spec.

Max output from rear wheel
STD: 88.53 HP at 7600rpm
SR_rac: 89.20 HP at 7500rpm
No DB: 90.33 HP at 6900rpm

Max Torq from rear wheel
STD: 101.14Nm at 5700rpm (over 100Nm 5600-5900)
SR_rac: 102.24 at 5900rpm (over 100Nm 5600-6200)
No DB: 102.46 at 5900rpm (over 100Nm 5500-6300)

All runs were done at the same day, STD pipe in the morning and SR-racing pipe in the evening.

I will stay with SR-racing pipe without DB killer for now
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SR Racing on Left
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SR Racing on Bottom
The connecting pipe is poorly shielded, and now besides heating my hiney, the connecting pipe is scorching the left leg of all my Gortex riding apparel. 
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The install was a bit miserable.  The can to this day still wants to rotate.  I think the only next step will be someone to weld Titanium and permentently weld the inlet pipe to the muffler and also add another clamp.  The tally thus far--we've spent a lot of cash, still have a hot hiney, now have another issue of melting Gortex pant legs and a muffler that wants to cant/rotate.

Off to the next mods and hopefully rethink what to do with these.


0 Comments

Put your Left Foot Out and Do the Hokey Pokie

12/13/2013

1 Comment

 
PictureBroken Shaft (Not mine!)
Ain't this a bummer!  It seems that casting for the lever is stronger than shaft and that doesn't bode well in a fall.  It's a big job to get the shaft replaced, the engine has to come out and the cases split open.

Surprisingly, our 'friends' at Touratech have some reasonably priced replacement levers/pedals.
Folding brake lever (P/N 049-0223) and  Folding Shift Lever (P/N 049-012) can be had for around $65 each...and the cost to mail yet another full sized catalog.  :-)




The adjustable gear lever allows a more precise fit to your boot size. In addition, the spring-loaded folding tip reduces the chance of damage and reduces forces transferred to the selector shaft.
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OEM Shift Lever--Too Strong
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Touratech Steel Shifter
For the brake lever, only really need to replace the nose with one that folds which is more likely to survive off-road. This one is urber easy to install.  Just unbolt one bolt, slide on the new one and rebolt.  Kabam!
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Touratech Foldable Brake Lever Tip
While we are the on the topic of feet, I elected to run Pivot Pegs (P/N PP-01MK3) on this bike.  I do like their motion, but the current trend is to trade motion for larger platforms. I will need to grab some photos.  

1 Comment

Hands Up!

8/9/2013

0 Comments

 
If you aren't running some sort of hand guards off-road, then you either need to bring lots of spare levers, ride like Shane Watts, or buy some hand guards.  There are many kinds of hand guards that could work, but I am a fan of Highway Dirt Bikes.  The main reason is that the way the top clamp connects the guards. I find that it somewhat dampens vibrations and secondly the top clamp gives me a tidy place to mount a RAM ball (or 2) and sometimes a button if needed.

I also magnificently crash tested another set a few times.  The guards never missed a beat, and in fact, you will likely bend a bar slightly before you will break off your levers. The other nice feature is you can run them without the plastic shields for better air flow on your hands during the hot summer months.

While HDB does come with mirrors, I do find them a bit buzzy.  They are fine for the minor stuff off-road, but I don't particularly care for them off road.  A better all round choice would have been the Double Take mirrors. 
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0 Comments

Scheffelmeier Metall

7/19/2013

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There are times in life, when you should stand back and soak up the beauty of the situation.  Scheffelmeier Metall is one of the those times.  He is a clearly a master of his craft, and it's almost a damn shame to be putting his work on the bottom of motorcycle.  I believe that most of is should be on the coffee table.

They say that a good weld should look like a stack of nickels, which has been slightly knocked over.  Look at how well his corner comes together and the welding.  It is a point where form meets function.
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The proprietor of Scheffelmeier Metall is willing to do custom work.  Here, he was able to blend the tool box from one skidplate design onto his existing skidplate for the G650X.  Attaches to the frame, not the engine.  The aluminum is very thick too!
The tool box has a rubber seal, so it is water resistant and in new condition 100% waterproof.  There are two brackets which will bolt on at the frame. On these bracket the bash plate will bolt on with two M8 bolts. The bash plate is made of 7020 T6 aluminum. The surface is shot peen.
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This is a standard 6" rachet extension shown for size.  This is one large cavernous hole!  My only complaint is that I stuggle to keep it water tight, but really most of the stuff that goes in here is waterproof anyhow.

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This skidplate design also covers the very exposed oil return line shown here on Snook's build, which neither the factory X-Country or X-Challenge plate protect. 

Since shipping across the pond is prohibitive, I decided that I should indulge with another item that would essentially tag-along at no shipping.
The Front sprocket cover - case saver was just the item.  The machining marks make me almost wish I would have just got the natural finish to really make this one pop!
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This protective gear is to protect the engine case better if the chain breaks and is wedged between the motor and pinion! Also catches less dirt in it, as this is not closed completely! Includes 3 x M6 VA screws! The protective gear is anodized black.
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The First Mod--Engine Guards

7/11/2013

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While I certainly love to doodle on my own time building up any bike, our long adventure teeters on existing for 2013. The XC might have to spring into action a full 10 months earlier than planned after a unfortunate demise of my stator on Dorito.

However, the build on the XC is not nearly far enough along, and in fact will take most of the next 12 months to finish.  By "finish", it's the point of any project that I am financially ruined...or I perceive that there is nothing left to saddle onto the beast (whichever comes first!)






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One of the things that really plagued this particular bike build up was the lack of after market support, probably attributed to the poor overall sales numbers.  About the only thing that saved the after market at all is the Bavarian blood.

One of the first orders of business was the crash bars, lord knows we will be kissing God's Green Earth soon enough!  At the time, I think only Touratech and SW-Motech had produced any.  I was lucky to get one of the last sets in the US from Twisted Throttle.
Constructed of 26.9mm outer-diameter mild steel tubing.   The part number is SBL.07.629.100.

Never had considered SW-Motech in the past, I was hesitant.  The bars themselves are quite small and unassuming.  But, they are quite nicely made and fit up well. They attach to the frame of the bike vs the motor mounts where possible. Additionally, the cross member provides some crush protection to the radiator, and also prevents later movement of the bars on crashing. The powder coat is still shiny 2 years later.  They have survived the few minor get off, and I have been pleased with them especially considering the $200 initial investment.

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One factor to consider when selecting the crash bars is your skid plate.  There have been many a story of crash bars not fitting your skid plate.  It seems the BMW P/N 71607706067 ($127).  Snooks Build shown here with thee BMW bars.

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We Shall Call Her Cool Ranch

6/23/2013

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I am not sure what really happened next. The G650Xs were like hen's teeth to find.  They didn't sell well quantity wise, and they were a bit too new for people to be dumping them yet.  Add to that, I wanted one that hasn't been flogged.  Not having much on the market at the times, I decided to sit this one out a bit.  I set up some seemingly innocent Google searches and went on my merry way.

 I guess when you aren't looking (or needing) something, you will certainly find one.  In this case, I found a 2009 just 150 miles north in Pennsylvania.  The 2009 was the last production year of the bikes (2007-2009), and perhaps the most attractive for me.  First, it was the only year it was yellow, secondly, it the suspension had been lowered more and third, it had a steel sub-frame, as the Aluminum ones had been cracking under the weight of panniers. 

As the first BMW was the same color as Doritos, I elected to keep the naming convention.  This one would be "Cool Ranch" Dorito.
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Never throw your leg over a bike you don't want in your stable!

6/1/2013

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The spring of 2012 was a wet one.  One of the those springs, that you actually consider your carpentry skills to ponder if you could actually build an Arc.  With cabin fever setting in, Bruce and I wonderlust for an opportunity to get some dirt under our wheels.  That moment comes when the local BMW dealership hosts the off-road riding day at a local farm. 

While there are enough bikes around this place to start a breeding conservation program for BMWs, today would not be a Big Bike day.  The ground is far too soggy to truly devour the terrain.  Yes, today is a little bike mudding day. 

As the day began, the big BMWs performed as expected.  It looked at times like bowling alley of strikes as bikes lay left and right of every planned obstacle.  As they continued to play on their grassy knoll, the little bikes diverted our attention to wallowing in the mud. 

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While we frolicked about like hippos in water, we would catch  each other only long enough to roost.  Seems only logical that eventually we would frag someone not in the inner circle.  However, now 2 years into the future, it was probably the best roosting we've ever accomplished!

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You see, I had been looking for a mid-weight ADV bike but couldn't quite put my finger on what I wanted to ride.  Keith happen to bring his XC to the off road day, then spend all day throwing mud back at us.  By lunch, all the bikes were pretty much trashed.  Keith was more than generous to let me throw my leg over his steed.

It was a surreal experience. For one, the XC had to be the ugliest bike when it was on the show room floor.  I mean, for the next 2 years dealers dropped the prices wickedly low in the hope that someone would own those sorry bikes.  Now, in the middle of a muddy field, I found my next love (not Keith, the bike!)
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